How the 10-Step Korean Skincare Routine Works + the Pros and Cons
Let's face it- as time goes by, beauty is a battle of upkeep. And when it comes to winning skin, there are levels to the layers. While the melanated woman has the upper hand on flawless skin (hashtag "Black Don't Crack)", that doesn't mean there aren't a few natural fault lines that come with time.
In comes the "Korean Skincare Routine" - a 10 step beauty regimen inspired by Korea's cultural, beauty obsession with healthy skin. The 10-step routine is supported by generations of scientific evidence and advancement, and has proven effective for healthier and smoother skin.
The secret in its success lies not only in the number of products, but the actual process. Yes, a huge part of this routine’s success is following all 10 steps, all in order, 2 times a day (morning and evening), unless stated else wise.
Without further ado, here are the 10 steps as commonly recommended to effectively carry out the “Korean Skincare Routine”
1. Oil cleanser - Step 1 of the two (2) step "cleansing process." Oil cleansers are great for makeup removal and at breaking down oil-based debris such as makeup, sunscreen and air pollutants that attach to your skin throughout the day. Lighter oils such as macadamia, jojoba and grape seed oils are recommended.
2. Foam/cream cleanser - Step 2/2 of the cleansing process. Removes water-based impurities that oil cleansers miss such as sweat and dirt. Some recommended ingredients in your cleanser should be green tea and rice extract.
3. Exfoliators- Helps remove hard to reach debris and dead skin. Removal of dead skin helps the skin to breathe better and absorb products more effectively. Exfoliation should be gentle, and only done 1-2 times a week, with a core focus on visibly open pores, the nose and cheeks. Sugar scrubs are a good natural alternative to salicylic and lactic acid-based products found in most exfoliators.
4. Toner - Toner is a mid-way reset in the 10-step process that helps to balance pH levels. Toner not only removes any leftover residue from cleansers but also re-moisturizes the skin, allowing for a better absorption of the products that will be used next. Using a cotton ball to dab or clean hands to "pat", apply products such as aloe or citric acid-based toner onto your face.
5. Essence - Essences are usually a concentrated blend of anti-aging and complexion-enhancing ingredients that you lightly pat onto your face and neck. Great, natural options include rice extract and hyaluronic acid.
6. Ampoule/Serum - Ampoules, serums and boosters are perfect for directly treating problem areas and they target skin specificities such as hyperpigmentation, acne and fine lines. All you need to do is to apply them directly to the problem areas of your skin. Ideal ingredients include tea tree, vitamin C and soybeans.
7. Sheet Mask - Masks are the core of the Korean skincare routine, and infuse skin with concentrated essence, providing maximum hydration and moisture. They can be used daily for particularly dry skin or as little as 2-3 times a week. They should be applied and "patted" onto the skin and left for 15-20 minutes. Ideal ingredients include cucumber, green tea and rose.
8. Eye Cream: Not all creams are created equal and those applied "around" the eyes are particularly special. The skin surrounding our eye is the thinnest and most delicate and requires special attention and treatment in order to minimize dark circles, crow's feet and puffiness. With your pinky, you should gently tap the product around your orbital bone while avoiding getting any product in your waterline.
9. Moisturizer: Be it lotion, gel, cream, etc., moisturizers help to hydrate and "plump" skin as well as smooth fine lines. Ideal ingredients include hyaluronic acid, bamboo, green tea, Cica and more. Due to varying skin types, you may have to figure out which moisturizers work best for your skin.
10. Sunscreen - Sunscreen protects your skin from damaging UV rays, helping to prevent premature skin aging and for some, skin cancer. Even if you plan to remain indoors most of the day, sunscreen should be applied in the morning and re-applied throughout the day (as needed). This should be your absolute last step in the morning portion of your routine, so it can shield your skin effectively but does not need to be performed before bedtime.
The Pros and Cons of the Korean Skincare Process:
Pro:
The “pro” to the 10-step Korean Beauty process is pretty straight forward: a healthy, glowing skin for the win. So, let’s move on to the not so pretty side of staying pretty.
Cons:
It’s time consuming - Any task that requires 10-steps to complete isn't necessarily time friendly. And between work life, home life and personal life, the Korean skincare routine isn't always the easiest thing to squeeze into one's jam-packed schedule.
It’s trial & error - No two "problematic" skins are created the same. Some people may suffer from excessively oily skin, and others may actually have sensitive skin, in which the more products, the less merrier. However, it's all trial and error until you get the right products for your skin. For example, oil-based cleansers may seem like a "no-go" for those prone to oily skin, but it is a very important, first step in the process. Not to mention, the remaining 9 steps will wash away any excess oil once it has performed its magic. There are also plenty of natural and organic ingredient swaps which might be good alternatives for people with sensitive skin.
It’s a splurge - More money, more products. With a 10-product list, things can get, well pricy. Even with natural swaps to replace pricier over-the-counter options, it's easy to go through products when 8 out of 10 the steps on your list are to be performed twice a day. Hey, no one said it would be cheap, but if done right, this routine is totally worth it.
It's tedious - Just because we may have the time to perform a “twice a day, 10-step beauty routine”, doesn't mean one always wants to. Staying dedicated to a demanding beauty regiment is not everyone's idea of fun and it’s easy to get discouraged especially if you can’t build up the discipline to stick to it.